Beyond labels: Artec Eva aids in creating a human-centered design approach for sustainable fashion

The concept of ethical fashion has been on the radar for a couple of decades now, addressing concerns in environmental, artistic, and industrial dimensions. While sustainable is obviously the new black, many still question what can really be done to change the fashion industry, where garments are still manufactured in far-from-perfect conditions, shipped across the world, and often live a short life due to not fitting their owner or being replaced by the next fad.

Customization and sustainability, but make it fashion

One fashion professional who truly cares is Hannah Cooper, a graduate of the MA Fashion course at the Royal College of Art in London. Growing up in a family where three generations of women sewed, either professionally or in their spare time, she made craft a part of her identity early in life. During her time at UAL, Cooper explored the symbiosis of craft and technology, focusing on their integration into viable business concepts. Her goal was not only to create sustainable systems for design but also offer a new set of principles for this workflow, paying equal attention to technology, efficiency, and empathy.

Cooper’s project idea was a retail system in the form of the Gracious Studio App, a tool that combines innovative problem-solving with empathetic design thinking, entirely based on real user needs. The key mission of this B2B retail system was to enable fashion brands to cater to individuals of all abilities, neurodiversities, genders, ages, and shapes by offering bespoke versions of their ready-to-wear lines. Ultimately, this systemically inclusive tool would address critical issues such as fast fashion, mass production, the male gaze, and the lack of inclusivity and trust in fashion brands.

Hannah Cooper Body Scan. Image courtesy of the designer

“My research delved into the contemporary value of physical labor and craft in the context of digital innovation,” Cooper explained. “This included my investigation into body scanning, encompassing the experience of being scanned, the interior design of scanning rooms, current applications, and ethical considerations such as data protection and the effects of being confronted with one’s body scan on one’s mental health.”

The right technology to enhance the craft

To develop her unique approach, the creator needed technology that matched her ambitious vision. Cooper set out to harness 3D body scanning, digital pattern cutting, garment simulation, avatar creation, and traditional bespoke tailoring to find her perfect toolset. She tested various technologies during her in-depth examination of digital fashion, assessing implementation, potential, inherent limitations, and moral concerns. Before incorporating body scanning technology into a retail experience, the designer needed to feel confident in the safety of the process and be certain about the precision and speed offered by a 3D scanner. This is when Artec solutions took the stage.

The Royal College of Art scanning lab, equipped with next-gen devices, was where Cooper found her 3D scanner. Artec Eva, a global favorite for capturing the human body, is a structured-light scanner with a resolution of up to 0.1 mm and a scanning speed of up to 16 frames per second. The quick, detailed textured scans Eva creates have earned it a reputation in human-centered applications, from healthcare to forensics to CGI. The lab’s tech team and Cooper agreed that using the portable handheld scanner would be the easiest way to capture the planned upright pose. Exceptional precision and high-quality skin mapping were essential factors as well.

3D body scanning redesigned

While the artist was aware this 3D scanning solution offers unparalleled accuracy in capturing measurements compared to traditional methods, she was also pleased to see it reduced the margin of error significantly, ensuring precise data collection. Conventional measuring techniques require expert knowledge, while Artec 3D scanning software supports easy data integration into various apps, making the tool very accessible.

“Customers can easily get their body scan using their smartphones, eliminating the need for specialized expertise,” said Cooper. “3D scanning enables remote fittings: this non-intrusive approach respects the customer’s privacy and comfort. Moreover, the technology captures the body form without any bias, which can help in promoting inclusivity and diversity. This process must be designed with the customer’s comfort and privacy at its center.”

Bespoke mannequin created for the project with measurements from Artec Eva. Image courtesy of Hannah Cooper

The artist begins her design process by using Artec Eva to capture a detailed body scan, which she then imports into CLO 3D to create a precise digital pattern that is ultimately transformed into a physical garment. The scanning workflow Cooper invented was far from technical; one of her objectives was to redesign the experience and customize it in every way possible to make a person feel completely safe and respected. The approach stemmed from encountering resistance and skepticism from peers, mentors, and potential clients regarding the technology. To address these concerns, Cooper used her firsthand body scanning experience to understand the potential reservations her clients might have. Recognizing the importance of transparency and responsibility, she then collaborated with a data scientist to examine the necessary data, explore encryption methods, discuss secure storage options, and ensure clients could retain control over their data.

Upon discussing the scanning session’s objectives and requirements, the team proceeded to set up the scanning equipment and environment. To ensure anonymity, Cooper opted to wear a mask that covered her face and head. With the setup in place, she stepped into the middle of the room and followed the technician’s instructions regarding body positioning and movement. Detailed 3D data was quickly captured of her body from all angles, from the crown of her head to the heels of her shoes. After the scanning session was completed, the remaining task was to refine and process the captured data in Artec Studio, which involved aligning the multiple scans. In addition, Cooper used Blender for capturing screenshots and recordings, additional manipulation of light and glitching effects, and surroundings projected onto her skin. The final touch in CLO 3D for garment design, bespoke pattern creation, garment fitting and rendering – and voila, the project was all set with the necessary material.

GRACIOUS STUDIO app, offering made-to-measure solutions for garment design and fit customization, enabled by body scanning technology. Image courtesy of Hannah Cooper

“Artec 3D scanning technology provides a high-quality scan with accurate measurements that can be integrated into various software applications, streamlining the workflow and enhancing efficiency,” shared Cooper.

Inclusive digital experience to transform fashion

With her understanding of the scanning process and empathy for users, the designer successfully created an app and retail system that prioritized vision, inclusivity, accessibility, and user-centered design. Artec 3D scanning technology has been instrumental in achieving GRACIOUS STUDIO’s goals by not only showcasing an inclusive digital experience for the fashion industry, but fostering empathy and facilitating meaningful conversations.

The data from Artec Eva was fundamental in creating Cooper’s installation titled ‘Self vs. Scan.’ This intimate and ethereal video installation, subtitled with poetry based on the artist’s experience, provoked conversations about the ethics of body scanning and the potential of bespoke systems innovation for a more inclusive fashion industry. “The extraordinary resolution of the Artec scans provided me with a beautiful representation of my body,” added Cooper. “The scanner’s ability to capture intricate details helped reframe my perception of self.”

Self vs. Scan, video Installation at the Royal College of Art in April 2023. Image courtesy of Hannah Cooper

Cooper envisions a scenario where Artec scanning technology is fully integrated into her app, leveraging the LiDAR function of smartphones. In her speculative vision, customers would be guided through the scanning process by the app, all from the comfort of their own homes. The designer is confident that extremely detailed and high-quality mobile scanning will be enabling Gracious Studio to provide customers with perfectly fitting, customized garments.

In the future, Cooper hopes to pursue research and applications of 3D technology in assistive technology and inclusive fashion design. She plans to investigate how body scanning can empower individuals with disabilities by providing tailored clothing solutions. Through this research, she aims to develop inclusive technologies that allow people of all abilities to participate fully in the fashion industry, fostering greater diversity, equity, and accessibility.

What makes Hannah Cooper stand out in sustainable fashion is the interconnectedness of her project dimensions. Artistically, she combines aesthetic expression, conceptual design, and visualization to spark discussions about body politics, inclusivity, and societal norms. Technologically, she focuses on practicality, efficiency, and innovation, using 3D scanning for body measurements and AI for custom pattern generation to create sustainable fashion systems for improving customer experience. Environmentalism is essential to her work; she is dedicated to reducing the exploitation of people and the environment by the fashion industry. This combination of paradigms and approaches may well be the first step towards the fashion of tomorrow: smart, ethical, kind to the planet, and making people feel cared for.